Last Train to Córdoba

A field trip to Córdoba by train from our base of operations in Sevilla was in order to cement our learning and timelines for the various civilizations that inhabited the Iberian Peninsula.  For the record, we like trains.  What a nice way to travel, as long as you don’t have to hang out in train stations for long.  This was the last dose of Roman study for John before he has to write his responses to the learning objectives from his Western Civilization class on Google Docs.  We did a speed tour of the Roman ruins, taking delight in how much of the original Roman city outline was preserved (or fossilized, as our guide loved to say).  While the outline was preserved, not so the interior.  The traditional Roman, orthogonal grid street layout has been bastardized over time, creating a maze...just like other ancient and medieval cities. Our guide helped us determine subtle differences in architecture that revealed whether the ruins were from the Roman Republic or the Empire time periods.  Having an archeologist at our disposal was a unique opportunity to learn.  So much information was hammered into us, it was a good thing we were in round 6 on this subject matter.

The list of Roman scholars, Jewish philosophers and Muslim poets, mathematicians and scientists that studied here is long and distinguished.  Cordoba was one of the first cities taken by the Muslims during the invasion in 711.  The Visigoth succession uncertainty and lack of unity, coupled with the element of surprise as to numbers and capability of the invasion force made it a relatively short fight. Peaceful coexistence and learning were enjoyed in exemplary fashion during the early part of Muslim rule- up until the 11th century when the Muslims started fighting each other in civil wars.  In Córdoba, the burning of irreplaceable archives occurred during infighting among Muslims over which ruling family would be Caliph, Emir or Sultan, etc during various reorganization activities.  Cordoba was retaken by the Reconquista (1236) by Ferdinand III of Castille, some 250+ years before Ferdinand and Isabella would take Granada.  The 3 religions would coexist under christian rule with only a change to who would tax whom and and by what premium.  We visited a synagogue, a cathedral and a mosque.  In fact, the entire story can be told in those surroundings.

Roman burial towers, right outside the central gate to the city.  What you see is an archeological reconstruction technique called Anastylosis which uses as much of the original material as can be found to reconstruct an artifact or structure, …

Roman burial towers, right outside the central gate to the city.  What you see is an archeological reconstruction technique called Anastylosis which uses as much of the original material as can be found to reconstruct an artifact or structure, and modern, contrasting materials are used to ensure structural integrity and compete the shape.  

Chariot rut from 200 years before Christ was born...John asked the question I was thinking...this road looks less smooth than the random countryside, these cobblestones would not make for a comfortable ride.

Chariot rut from 200 years before Christ was born...John asked the question I was thinking...this road looks less smooth than the random countryside, these cobblestones would not make for a comfortable ride.

The Cathedral bell tower was placed on top of the minaret after the Reconquista.

The Cathedral bell tower was placed on top of the minaret after the Reconquista.

Example of a Roman column and "Wasp nest" capital, recycled as a carriage wheel deflector on the corner of a medieval home.  The capital is easiest indicator of Roman, Visagoth or Muslim design/construction as the tools and methods used by each…

Example of a Roman column and "Wasp nest" capital, recycled as a carriage wheel deflector on the corner of a medieval home.  The capital is easiest indicator of Roman, Visagoth or Muslim design/construction as the tools and methods used by each were different.

The Cathedral was a mosque, and many architectural features remind us of what it once was.  The mosque was expanded two times before it was turned into a cathedral, it is immense inside.  in some areas, if you look only at the arches and c…

The Cathedral was a mosque, and many architectural features remind us of what it once was.  The mosque was expanded two times before it was turned into a cathedral, it is immense inside.  in some areas, if you look only at the arches and columns, you feel like you are still in a mosque.  It is that big.  If you then wander toward an altar, or the choir, you can't miss that you are indeed in a cathedral.

The refurbishment and transformation of the darker, 9th century Muslim design into a 16th century Renaissance masterpiece of a definitive, major alter and transept.  The theory of the case was that the new light of the new testament would bring…

The refurbishment and transformation of the darker, 9th century Muslim design into a 16th century Renaissance masterpiece of a definitive, major alter and transept.  The theory of the case was that the new light of the new testament would bring the people out of the un-enlightened state to the glory of the church.  A classic quote from Charles I of Spain, later Charles V of the Holy Roman Empire said it all, "We are destroying something uniques and we are constructing something that can be seen everywhere."

This alley and courtyard is called flower street...for obvious reasons.  

This alley and courtyard is called flower street...for obvious reasons.  

An edgy cross.  Crucifixion was an edgy process.  Christianity was an edgy subject during numerous administrations in Córdoba.

An edgy cross.  Crucifixion was an edgy process.  Christianity was an edgy subject during numerous administrations in Córdoba.

John and Belinda look at the bridge on the path of the original Roman road leading out from town center.  Belinda said goodbye and we miss her already.

John and Belinda look at the bridge on the path of the original Roman road leading out from town center.  Belinda said goodbye and we miss her already.